Hill Rise Allotment Association

Welcome to the Autumn 2011 newsletter

Well, another allotment year has gone by. Another busy year for the committee, and a challenging year on the plot.

I think I can honestly say in the eight seasons I have been allotmenting on Hill Rise, this has been the most testing yet. From the frosts which took most of the fruit, to the dry spring, summer and autumn, mother nature has done her best to try and scupper us this season. I don't say this to complain, but just to say to you, if you are new and particularly started a plot on the meadow, that you've all done very well, and it can only get better ! (to paraphrase both old Mr Grace and Professor Brian Cox in one sentence).

Our second Flower and Produce Show was a great success, and having organised it twice, I think we can honestly say it is now an 'Annual' show. Because of the cool weather this summer, some things weren't quite ready for the show, particularly in the flower section, but we expanded the number of classes overall, and the number entrants grew, and we still have room to expand in the Corn Exchange in future years. We are keen to expand the number of entries from children, and have some ideas to do classes which a teacher could do with a whole class, and which will allow the schools to get the necessary work completed before they break up for summer.

Thank you to everyone who came to the AGM. Those who came will have seen that the finances are in good order. We are now going to explore with St Ives Town Council some options for shared investment in improvement to facilities. As always I would be happy to hear from you, if you have any ideas for improvements, and more particularly if you would like to help with the work of the committee.

I would like to thank Jude Ongeri in who has been our treasurer for the last two years and has now stood down from that position. The new Treasurer is Mark Bottoms, and we have already been busy setting up an on line payment system, which, once we have negotiated the complexities of PayPal and the necessary redesigns to the web site, should make payment of membership fees much easier.

Another success this year has been the Gardening Club, and I would like to thank Robin Bletsoe who has led that initiative and has, with his career in amenity horticulture, helped and advised me with my many challenges with the Council. Please note that all HRAA members are able to go to Club events (evening talks, trips to Kew etc) on the same basis as Gardening Club members.

Finally I would like to thank John McKinnie for all his hard work with minuting meetings, logging redundant and unkept plots, chairing the Produce show sub committee, but most of all compiling the newsletter which you are reading now, which is always visually very appealing. I know that John is always keen to have more contributions, so perhaps my last ask, as we start a new allotment year, is that everyone will consider submitting an item into the newsletter. Now is the time to think about it - as you are sitting there over those dark winter months with a sloe gin by your side, put pen to paper, or finger to keyboard, and send us something to read in the next edition.

Richard Weightman, Chair, HRAA

Growing garlic

Now is the time of year to grow garlic. It really is pretty simple. Here are a few tips.

Traditionally garlic is planted on the shortest day of the year and harvested on the longest day of the year - November is a good time to plant, when the soil is still warm, but is going towards cooler temperatures. Conventional wisdom says that garlic needs a period of cold temperatures before it will form a bulb properly in the following year. Some people do find that garlic can be sown in the spring and will still form a bulb, so don't despair if you have forgotten.... but autumn planting is still best.

Garlic doesn't need a very rich soil, but does prefer a free draining soil - as most of the soil on the allotments is heavy, dig in plenty of organic matter like compost before planting. You will notice that the Italians on our site, who always growing excellent garlic, actually leave the bulb sitting on the soil surface when they plant it. There is a lesson there - don't plant it too deep!

Plant with the flat end down the way - the new green shoot will emerge from the pointy end (a horticultural term) and by spring you'll have a good few inches of growth. General advice says if you are troubled by crows or pigeons you may wish to net your newly planted cloves, as the birds may lift them just for fun. However, if you think about the Italians again, and how they plant them exposed on the soil surface, it doesn't actually seem to be a big problem. Perhaps we have a more discerning type of crow in St Ives.

Your garlic needs little maintenance in the spring and will generally be ready to lift in early July.

Once harvested, dry off for long term storage. Now here is a final tip which I only realised quite recently. When garlic is kept warm, it thinks it is still summer and so won't grow. Conversely when it is cool, it thinks it is autumn and starts to shoot. Therefore unlike most vegetables where we are advised to store them cool, you actually find this works against you with garlic. In fact if you want to keep your garlic well into the new year, and possibly all year round, bring it inside before the weather gets really cold, and keep it at a lowish room temperature (e.g. in a north facing room). That way you will find it doesn't sprout and you dont have to throw half of it away.

NSALG newsletter summary

The Autumn newsletter from the National Association of Allotments and Leisure Gardens (NSALG) contains something for almost everyone. Here's a summary of content from the last issue.

The title Growing Organically is self explanatory. I like the bit about making a plot bee friendly.

Mike Thurlow is not a name I recognise and part of his two pages giving advice are pretty basic but those fairly new to allotment gardening may well find them useful.

Chicken Keeping for Beginners is another self explanatory title but the article also gives details of websites with more information.

The article on Garden Sheds should provide plenty of food for thought. All too often the shed gets neglected until a problem occurs.

Occupiers Liability may sound boring and, quite possibly, puzzling. However, if you have a pond, machinery or animal traps on your allotment you could be in trouble if a trespasser is injured whilst “illegally” visiting your plot.

Public Liability Insurance, who is covered? Even a friend who helps out occasionally is covered by the NSALG policy As well as members of your family. The brokers who handle the policy also offer home and car insurance to members.

Book Reviews

There are quite a few reviews many of them on books relating to gardening. With Christmas coming up you might find a book for someone in your family.

There is plenty more but sadly some of it is now out of date. However, the next issue is out soon.

Access is via the committee page on the HRAA website. You'll be asked for a user name and password, these are respectively 'hraa' and 'pericallis'. Be patient... it can take a minute to appear.

Clear indications you have too many courgettes

* Your neighbour finds them every morning on his doorstep.

* You are eating them for breakfast, lunch, and dinner and between meals too.

* You have a flute made out of a Courgette.

* Even the field mice stop eating them.

* You keep picking them but still have more today than you had yesterday.

* Nightmares about a giant Courgette wake you in the night.

* Your kids are using them for building blocks.

* You spray your Courgette plants with sugar water to attract insects. But they won't bite.

* You spend hours on the computer looking for Courgette recipes.

* You vow not to grow them next year but know that you will.

Aerial view of the allotments

Here's a recent aerial photo of our allotments taken during a balloon flight. Many thanks to Steve Wolff for this.

If you snap any photos on the allotments over the next three months why not email me a copy? I'll include in a new photos page.

Abbots Ripton Hall competition 2012

The Abbots Ripton Hall Garden Show is being held from 30-June to 01-July 2012, supporting a variety of charities.

New to the next Show will be a container garden competition. The main rule is that the container must fit within an area one metre square. There's a suggestion of a £5.00 donation to enter, and if more than ten entries are received from HRAA the judges will decide who is the winner of our group, as well as judging our entries individually within the overall competition.

For more information and to access the entry form click here.

Growing rhubarb

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum or Rheum x hybridum, as most varieties are known as) is a popular fruit on our allotments though technically it is a vegetable. It is from the Polygonaceae family and is generally the only member of this family which most of us grow as a crop on our allotments. You may possibly have another member of this family growing on your plots, Rumex spp (Docks) which if you look carefully you can see the family resemblance especially when both flower.

Cultivation is fairly simple, usually the fleshy ‘crown’ is planted while dormant in a well manured planting hole. The crown must sit above the soil surface. It does really well if mulched with compost or manure and straw in the autumn. However, I have been asked over and over recently by some allotment holders when they’ve passed by my plot why their rhubarb doesn’t do very well and why my rhubarb grows so well. It was only when I was asked this question by someone with one of the new allotments that I realised what the problem was…..lack of patience.

To have a successful crop of rhubarb you need to be patient. It should not be picked in its first year and only very, very lightly in the second year if at all. You should also stop picking your rhubarb in mid July to allow the plant to recover before it dies down in the autumn, much like asparagus. The other reason rhubarb picking stops in mid July is that the oxalic acid levels in the stems supposedly increase over the summer, whether this is true or not I don’t know I haven’t located much experimental evidence yet that confirms this common belief. There is some experimental evidence that seasonal variation of oxalic acid concentration occurs in the rhizomes and the leaves; with the concentration in the rhizomes decreasing over summer and at the same time the concentration in the leaves increases. This suggests that the oxalic acid is translocated from the rhizomes to the leaves then it appears to be recycled back to the rhizomes when the plant dies back, in which case the concentration of the oxalic acid would increase in mid to late summer in the stems as it is moves through them to the leaves.

Oxalic acid is found in dangerous concentrations in the leaves and it is important that you don’t include any leaf material when you cook your rhubarb. There are other poisonous compounds found in rhubarb leaves. However contrary to popular belief it is safe to compost the leaves.

Forced rhubarb is grown to get an early crop of sweeter and more tender stems. To force you rhubarb you need to exclude the light with a bucket or purpose made rhubarb forcing pot. First the crown is covered in compost and straw and then the pot is placed over the top usually in January. If you force your rhubarb you then need to leave the plants to recover for at least one but preferably two years without picking to restore them to their normal vigour.

There are many varieties available and it is possible to extend your season by growing early and late varieties as well as getting some variation in flavour. The most common ones are Timperley Early ; Victoria; Champagne; Stockbridge, but there are a huge number of varieties available.

Though mostly used in desserts rhubarb can be used to make jams, chutneys, fruit liqueurs, wines and as sauces for savoury dishes. Although normally eaten cooked it is possible to eat it raw, as a child I ate it raw dipped in sugar.

Vegetable identity parade

Vegetables were lined up in an identity parade with a difference after police caught allotment raiders red-handed. Four growers came forward and were able to spot their own marrows, rhubarb, leeks and cabbages, magistrates were told.

The thieves were getting more than their recommended five a day of fruit and vegetables when caught at Brampton allotments by police. They admitted one charge of stealing fruit and vegetables on 10-October and asked for three other offences to be taken into consideration when they appeared before Huntingdon magistrates.

Police carried out a unique investigation by photographing the fruit and vegetables and then putting them on the verge, asking people if they could recognise or identify the vegetables. Four people came forward and one identified his marrows by their distinctive stripe.

The offenders were each conditionally discharged, ordered to pay £20 compensation and £85 costs.

To read the full article from the News & Crier click here.

Growing dahlias

As you get older, some plants which you used to think of as boring, old-fashioned, suddenly become much more interesting. One such plant is the dahlia. There are many forms of dahlia flower (cactus, pom-pom, paeony, colerette, water lilly..... ) and you can grow them from seed, tubers or cuttings. Within each flower type there are small, miniature and giant plant types.

Growing from seed simply to fill a border is cheap and easy, and you can get some excellent flowers. But you will also get a few off types, and you wont have much control over size. You need to grow them under some protection and don't plant them out until all danger of frost has passed. Don't start them too early as they are fast developers, and before you know it, you can have quite large plants, too big for the greenhouse, but not hardy enough to plant out.... one of the many challenges of growing dahlias!

If you want to grow them for showing, then generally, tubers and cuttings are the best way, purchased by mail order from specialist suppliers such as Halls of Heddon in Northumberland or
the National Dahlia collection. Generally these are the best way to get large, showy plants which have been selected by breeders and will grow true to form each time.

Order tubers any time from now (November). Cuttings can be ordered in the spring, but probably won't be delivered until May when the danger of hard frosts has passed. However cuttings which are delivered in early summer may not give you blooms for showing in early September if it happens to be a cool summer.

The images shown in this article include four varieties purchased as cuttings last year and grown in St Ives; the varieties being Kathryn's cupid (pink pom-pom) and Fiona Stewart (white pom pom) in the background, and El Cid (yellow water lilly) and Crystall Ann (yellow/orange cactus) in the foreground. For interest, the smaller flowers dotted around them are Helichrysum.

In order to show dahlias, you need generally three or five stems in a vase (read the schedule carefully for the exact number!) with only one flower per stem and a small amount of leaf left attached to the stem. Note that when dahlias grow they produce three flower buds per stem. So to get the biggest blooms (and ones 'according to schedule' for showing) they need two of the three buds pinching out. If you want to know more about how a dedicated dahlia grower does it, take a look at this video by clicking here.

Now that is dedication!

I hope this has inspired you and we see some more dahlias entered in the Flower and Produce Show in September 2012.

Tetanus risk

A risk that all allotment holders and gardeners should be aware of is tetanus. The bacteria lives in soil, especially manured soil, and on rusty implements. It enters the body through a small scratch or thorn prick and takes just a few days to take effect. It can be a very serious illness, potentially fatal, although deaths in the UK are rare.

The name comes from the Greek word 'tetanos' meaning taut, and reflects the prolonged contraction of skeletal muscle fibres that occurs if the infection is not treated quickly. This is where the alternative name of 'lockjaw' comes from. Early symptoms are stiffness of the jaw and neck.

Prevention is by immunisation. Hospitals tend to give patients a tetanus injection whenever they've suffered a puncture wound. The dose immunises for ten years, so if it's some time since your last jab it's worthwhile asking your doctor for an refresher. Unlike measles, merely catching tetanus in the past will not immunise you for the future.

Is compost making worth the effort?

They say seeing is believing and this photo showing the results from top dressing with compost of two hollows on a local football pitch should convince almost anyone. The areas that have been top-dressed are very much greener than the surrounding grass. Try it on your lawn.

Look at any good gardening book and you will find the advice for almost any vegetable is to dig in as much humus or manure in the autumn as possible. Our heavy clay will take all the compost you can make.

There is not enough space in a newsletter for an article on compost making. However, Gardening Which in April 2007 had a very good four page article on the subject and it is still available in the Huntingdon library. The article explains how regular turning over of the material in a compost bin will accelerate the process. It is a bit of a chore but well worth the effort.

An alternative source of information can be found on the Henry Doubleday Research Association website. They have a two part video guide to compost making so you will need a computer with speakers attached.

Cut grass from the lawn can be a problem because there is often too much. I have found that mixing in each lawn mower box full with the existing material as I mow will avoid the problem of soggy grass that is not breaking down. Another local allotment holder with a lot of grass mixes his with shredded paper. The grass quickly dries out and shrinks so that the result can then be added to the compost bin. Obviously anyone with a huge lawn probably also needs to use his or her green bin as well. If you can get hold of bedding from Guinea Pigs do so. The high urine content in the bedding will raise the temperature of your compost significantly and speed up the breaking down process. Rabbit or chicken litter is equally as good.

Pernicious weeds such as bindweed and couch grass must be avoided at all costs.

It is important to remember that garden compost is very rich and should not be used neat for seeds or seedlings. I have had good results using a 50% mix of homemade compost and soil or any of the commercial composts.

Allotment christmas presents

Wondering what present to buy your favourite vegetable, flower or herb grower? Here are a few stylish value for money options.

Any suggestions for additions are welcome. Just add a comment at the bottom of the page.

Note the price shown below does not include postage charge. This is shown on the seller's web site where applicable.

Books

		Allotment Vegetable Garden Planner: Track your triumphs and endeavours with over 70 pages for recording planting essentials such as sources of seeds, varieties, planting & harvesting times. Three sections for vegetables, fruits and herbs, all with their own record pages along with advice and plenty of growing tips. Includes pages for planting scheme plans, 24 plant name tags to identify seedlings and young plants plus a slider-grip bag to store seed packets. Price £7.00 from Amazon.

		Shed Chic: Sheds need no longer be neglected outbuildings or decorative afterthoughts. They are equally successful as spaces in which to indulge creative pursuits or to make a well-considered home-from-home away from the outside world. Shed chic is all about making space. The photographs are excellent and there are hundreds of them so you are bound to find inspiration here for your own shed. Beautifully written, even if you haven't got a shed this book will help you dream of your own. Price £14.21 from Amazon.

Storage

		Garden Work Tray: Heavy duty green plastic with handy storage containers & large potting area, meaning everything's close at hand. Useful for greenhouse or anywhere for potting. The tray is easily portable & lightweight, size: 59 x 60 x 16.4cm high. Supply your own tools. Price £5.99 from The Emporium.

		Tool Bag & Stool: Sturdy and practical, not only provides pockets to pop your tools in but also allows you to sit down and rest. Note tools not included. Price £9.00 from Countywide.

		Utility stool with tools: As an alternative this option comes in a smart gift carton. The detachable tool bag contains a range of tools with a basket underneath for waste or vegetables/fruit. Price £32.99 from StrawberryFool.

		Garden Apron: Another option for keeping tools handy whilst giving protection for messy jobs. Combined with a tool belt for keeping all the essentials in as well as a small compartment for a mobile phone, the extra strong apron has an adjustable neck & body straps to fit for comfort. Size 48 x 48 x 58cm. Price £8.65 from Amazon.

		Children's Gardening Bag & Tools: This sturdy canvas bag has 6 garden tools & a water sprayer for the little gardener. Tools made of strong metal with a solid wooden handle & all tuck neatly away in the canvas bag. Price £13.75 from The Childminding Shop.

Propagator

Self Watering Windowsill Propogator: A complete nursery for the windowsill featuring 7 mini vented propagators allowing the growth of a large number of plant varieties on just one unit. The heated base contains a 13 Watt carbon fibre element for even heat distribution. Not thermostatically controlled, but designed to increase the ambient compost temperature by around 8°C. Size 76 x 18.5 x 14.5cm. Price £14.99 from ebay.

Unusual watering cans

		Elephant Watering Can: Hand made in India, this unusual watering can holds approximately 2 litres but is lightweight, perfectly balanced and hand crafted from weather-resistant galvanised sheet metal. Price £18.49 from Greenfingers.

		Snail Watering Can: Or how about a slightly smaller alternative for the kids to use. Price £12.49 from Greenfingers.

Miscellaneous

		Beanstalk Magic Beans: Five beans with messages and pictures laser etched into each which continue to enlarge as the beans grow. Just plant the seed into the water beads (or soil) and less than two weeks later special messages grow with the plant. Different packs available. Price £3.00 from Not on the High Street.

		Firestick: For 'boys' who love to light fires in the Ray Mears fashion. Strike the blade down the firestick and a shower of sparks will start your camp fire in an instant. Price £8.50 from Not on the High Street.

		Help OXFAM Plant an Allotment: UK gardeners are discovering the joys of growing their own, but for many poor Third World women and men an allotment isn’t just a way of saving on the weekly shop... it's how they feed their families and earn a bit extra to buy other essentials. This gift will supply the tools, seeds and training to create working allotments that will produce a lot more. Cost £24.00 from OXFAM.

Caption competition

Here's a pleasant picture of an plot holder hard at work. Don't those boots look far too clean for a serious grafter?

So the challenge is... can you think of a suitable caption for the photo? Unfortunately no prizes, but entries will be judged and the top three published in the Winter newsletter.

To enter just add your caption as a comment at the bottom of the page. Including your name is optional.


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